Ever since hearing the news of Daniel Stern’s new restaurant coming to University City, I’ve been anxiously awaiting its opening. Well, the wait is over - and it was worth it. MidAtlantic Restaurant and Tap Room is up and running at 38th and Market, blending the feel of a cozy neighborhood bar and a sleek modern restaurant that reaches back to Philly’s roots. The fare is heavily influenced by Pennsylvania Dutch traditions, and is a locavore’s delight. Inspiration is also drawn from the eastern coast’s specialties (as the name would suggest), creating a winning combination.

The bar features six drafts, along with a cider and a root beer always on tap, and the local brews (think Yards, Dock St., and PBC) are supplemented by a lengthy list of bottles. Stern has also created a bunch of signature cocktails for the classy tippler, including “The Standpipe,” which is kind of like a more interesting version of the classic rum and coke, but with root beer instead (“an adult version of a root beer float,” as the bar tender describes it). There’s also the exciting “Rumpringa,” which created a pleasant feeling of jumpiness in my mouth. It has a true Pennsylvania-German feeling, made from indigenous rye, unfiltered apple, bitters, and honey. Yum.

I could talk about the drinks forever, but I’d better save room for the food. Meals start off with warm and buttery “chicken biscuits” and “cheese rolls” in lieu of bread, which are the perfect appetite whetter. There’s a long list of unique and delicious appetizers, ranging from the Farmhouse Salad (colorful, crisp, and seemingly straight from the field), to MidAtlantic Pig “Wings.” You’d imagine this would be something like a pork version of your typical hot wings, but no. The unique invention takes crispy and tender pieces of pork shoulder and slathers them in a sauce of molasses, rosewater, and two hot sauces. The sweetness of the molasses comes through first, and then a mild heat slowly creeps up. They’re the perfect mate to beer, and are destined to become one of the restaurant’s biggest crowd-pleasers. The Clam and Oyster Salsify stew is also to die for, and could be a meal in itself. The New England style chowder isn’t too heavy, and it overflows with flavor. (“Salsify,” in case you’re wondering, is a long-forgotten native root vegetable with a faint taste of oyster.)

If you’ve still got room for a main dish, there are nightly specials along with regular entrees and sandwiches. I was lucky enough to be dining on a Saturday, which meant the Saturday Roast. Perfect for a cold and rainy fall evening, the tenderloin atop beef stew was juicy, savory, and rich. It tasted like gourmet comfort food. The smokey Roast Pork with Apple Fritters and Sauerkraut was also delicious, and the MidAtlantic Burger is sure to become a classic, with its horseradish cheddar, homemade sausage, and deliciously fried roll in addition to your standard burger accoutrements.

For dessert try the Root Beer Sticky Buns (an obsession with root beer is apparent), the leftovers of which make a great breakfast the next morning, or the Peach Buckle, which is made with peaches from the chef’s parents’ Delaware orchard – you don’t get more home-grown than that! – and topped with marshmallow-flavored ice cream.

I can’t wait to go back and sample the rest of the menu. Whether your looking for creative fine dining, a homey meal, an evening cocktail, or just a place to grab a brew and watch the game, MidAtlantic is it.

MidAtlantic Restaurant and Tap Room
3711 Market Street
Philadelphia, PA 19104
(215) 386-3711
www.midatlanticrestaurant.com

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Related Categories: Dining + Food, Nightlife + Bars

Related Comments

by Dietra on February 17, 2010

This place is a breath of fresh air and I mean that literally. An atmosphere with no smoking.I recently went to a fiftieth birthday party it was a great place to celebrate someones life. Adult atmosphere, great food,and music. I had a wonderful time. Definitely recommend this place.Iam not a person that get out often very impressed!

by Corina on November 10, 2009

I love this place and completely agree with everything this article states. It could easily become my favorite go-to place. Definitely try it!

by Lori on October 27, 2009

The food at MidAtlantic is superior! Daniel Stern is such an innovative chef creating dishes that are not only works of art but taste as good as they look!

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